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Vintage firearms maintenance ?

974 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Tifosi
Ive been just wiping down the wood stocks followed by a very light coat of Hoppe's #9 and thats it, is there more to it?

On edit ,

I am talking old firearms (pre 40's I am guessing) with the more natural grainy type finish NOT those super glossy high shine pieces ...
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Depends on the rifle - some require teek oil to be applied to the wood inorder to maintain factory accuracy (Enflields come to mind).

On my older guns I tend to take it easy on them when it comes to cleaning, generally ensure that there is light oil on the moving parts and carefully inspect everything for signs of stress failures - especially the locking lugs on the bolt.
Linseed oil used to be a popular item too as are good quality furniture paste waxes.
Kinda fell off over the years, and even moreso once stuff started going all polymer/carbon/fiberglass instead of good quality wood.

In any event, if it was never sealed with shellac, varnish, eurothane or the like, I wouldn't do so now just to 'update' it as the probability is high that you might get a good pretty finish on it of a gloss/matte level of your choice, but you'll also see cracks start to appear as the wood that was kept for so long with oils or waxes suddenly starts to dry up, shrink and deform after things are made more or less air tight. (moreso if the whole part is dipped as opposed to inner unseen points being left bare)

Its kinda like trying to shrink wrap a cracker for want of a better analogy.

'Course if you put brand new previously untreated furniture on that wouldn't be an issue, but on older cured stuff its askign for trouble.
^ I think I meant linseed oil, I can't remember now and my brain is only half working lol
Left half or right half, or are you ambidextrious? :)

Teak oil is indeed used occasionally too, so it's not like you're way off or anything.
Never crossed my mind as incorrect useage anyway. :shrug:
Now if you'd have said Havoline or GTX......
I use this on all my guns, old and new.

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On my Garands and for all my milsurps I use pure tung oil (not tung oil finish) or linseed oil, letting it set for about 15 or 20 minutes and then making sure to wipe off off any excess (I personally prefer pure tung oil). A little goes a long way, applying too much and failing to wipe off all excess will result in a sticky stock. Make sure to dispose of rags properly.

The wax I like is Toms 1/3 ( it leaves a nice satin finish , some protection and Tom Hinds is good to deal with.
Mmmm, tung.

Its good for your wood.
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