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Uberbi.. nah, I can't do it.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does the underlayment go perpendicular to the subfloor? And do you mesh tape the joints? I'm using a shower pan. Underlayment below the shower pan as well? I'm not sure the rough plumbing is high enough if I need to put the backer underneath the pan. If not, what would raising the rough plumbing 1/2" entail?
 

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What are you using for underlayment?
I ran my subfloor perpendicular to the floor joist then the Durock cement board perpendicular to the subfloor.
The cement boards were put down on a bed of thinset then screwed down with none of the screws going into the joist and no matching seams.
I'm just an average do it yourselfer, I'm sure there are others here with more knowledge then me.
 

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Uberbi.. nah, I can't do it.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just went over the installation instructions for the drain. I'll definitely need to raise the rough plumbing. Right now, the PVC drain pipe extends up into the shower drain 1 1/4" (which is what the instructions call for). How do I raise the drain while keeping it the same diameter? I know how to work with PVC (have done it before), but am not sure how to get that extra little bit of height.
 

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Do you have access below the shower? If you do you will need to cut it and put a strait joint on it to raise it up.
 

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I just installed a new shower/tub and put in tile. I didn't run the cement board under the tub. I didn't see any reason to.
 

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Uberbi.. nah, I can't do it.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Do you have access below the shower? If you do you will need to cut it and put a strait joint on it to raise it up.
I kind of do, thanks to the contractor cutting the original hole in the wrong spot. (Despite the fact I'd given him the specs for the shower before.) This is one of many reasons why I'm doing everything myself now. 1) I'm cheap labor. 3) I'm not paying someone else to screw it up. 3) If I screw it up, I'll fix it.

The pipe isn't centered, either, I just realized. The mark on the tape is where the center should be, so I'll probably end up going back to the beginning of the trap and starting over.

 

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Cut it off and glue on a coupling, install your pipe any elevation you want. Maybe 2 45's or 22 1/2's will bring you back to center if you can fit them under the floor. Is there a trap under there?
 

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When I did the bathroom in my house in LG I installed a tub so not sure if its the same as a shower basin. Didn't run cement board under the tub but I did fill it with mortar before we set it in. Just enough to take up any space. Thing was rock solid like an old porcelain tub. That might work for both raising it up 1/2" as well as providing a firm base, but I'm not a plumber so do your homework. I ran the cement board perpendicular to the underlayment and taped the joints under tile. Good luck.
 

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To center the pipe , just cut it off twice the difference of what you need . That centers the pipe to the hole in the floor . To raise the pipe 1/2 inch to mate with the shower stall plate . As Bill said just cut it off then add a coupler to raise it up . ( my secret is to cut it off then raise the pipe higher than what I need , then make sure I have room for the backer board then cut it off then add the shower stall connection ! It works every time )
 

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Uberbi.. nah, I can't do it.
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Couple more questions. There's some wiggle room with the pipes and I can push the drain into place, but don't know if this will stress the pipe or joints. If it doesn't, maybe I can hold it in the correct position with perforated hanger iron?

Also, my purple primer and PVC glue both say Nov 2009 on the bottom. How long do they keep?
 

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Couple more questions. There's some wiggle room with the pipes and I can push the drain into place, but don't know if this will stress the pipe or joints. If it doesn't, maybe I can hold it in the correct position with perforated hanger iron?

Also, my purple primer and PVC glue both say Nov 2009 on the bottom. How long do they keep?
. Both the primer and the cleaner don't keep very well . If you buy the smaller twin pack it's less than five bucks for both of them . Yes you can slide the pipe some but try not to stress the joint too much . And yes you can hold it with perforated pipe strap ! FYI the way to tell if your pipe primer and glue are out of date is sniff it . If you don't get that dizzy feeling , it's time to buy new stuff ! That's how I tell cause if ain't broke !
 

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Uberbi.. nah, I can't do it.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Had to make a comment about cement backer. Score and snap? Are they kidding? Even with a brand new blade in the utility knife, I can't cut through the first bit of board to get to the mesh. Any hints on how to cut this stupid stuff? Pipe is cut down, so I can add a coupling and extra pipe for height. Was able to move the pipe over enough with the iron hanger to center it with no problem. Now I just have to finish cutting that dang underlayment.
 

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Had to make a comment about cement backer. Score and snap? Are they kidding? Even with a brand new blade in the utility knife, I can't cut through the first bit of board to get to the mesh.
I used hardibacker and could cut it with a knife. It sounds like you got the real deal cement backer. Perhaps you could use a sawzall?
 

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Uberbi.. nah, I can't do it.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Instructions say you're not supposed to cut it with a power saw, due to the silicon dust, but I'll bet people do it anyway!
 
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