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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I pulled a cgrutt this time and ordered first, asked questions later.
No, not the Dillon, but the Hornady LnL AP press. I read lots and lots and lots of comparisons between it, the Dillon650 and the Lee Loadmaster. It is the one that won my eye. Basically, my question(s?) is, to anyone who made this leap, or is thinking about it, are there any specific things I should know about moving from my single stage lee, to an auto progressive? Tips you'd care to share, warnings, good things to buy, things to avoid. All that stuff. I have been watching some great videos on youtube about the press setup and troubleshooting, and this one guy I am watching has a ton of great little tips about the press. I'm wondering if you guys have any tips on the switchover in general. I bought:

Hornady LnL AP press

Shell Plate #10 (.40 family)

Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner and Dry Lube to spray out the powder drop

RCBS primer flip tray

Is that about right for the upgrade (remember, I'm not getting into reloading, I already reload. This is going from single stage to progressive.)?

I want to get the RCBS lockout powder check die (thoughts on this vs. the dillon vs the powder cop?) in the future as well. Perhaps the case feeder and bullet feeder too if you guys recommend.

School me.
 

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A case feeder is an absolute must for me. Without it you have a lot of manual work to perform for every round, pick up a case and set it in the press-pick up a bullet and set it on the charged case every round. I've tried bullet feeders but not had a lot of success with one. Maybe Hornady has one that performs better. Never used a powder check die. With my setup the case activates the powder measure. If there is powder in the hopper, the round will get charged. There isn't a way for that to not happen. Without the case feeder a turret press is going to be just as fast to load with.
 

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I set my progressive up to do pistol and I use my single stage for rifle. I tend to shoot more pistol rounds that need to be reloaded than rifle.
jim
 

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There's a lot more going on at once with the progressive, so you've got to pay attention to a lot of things at the same time. A small flashlight is handy to visually check your powder loads. Don't go full speed until you get a feel for the machine. It sucks a lot when you just cranked through a hundred rounds, only to find out you ran out of primers or powder somewhere, and you can't tell the good rounds from the bad.
 

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I've got the Lnl AP and have been very happy with it. I added Dillon's low primer alarm, it dropped right on and is handy, and I made the $25 bullet feeder. If you do anything with a bullet feeder you won't be able to use a powder cop or lockout die but you can with the casefeeder.
Hornady case lube, even with carbide dies, makes things move easier and look into the ergo handle that Dan from Inline Fabrication sells, it's a nice upgrade. Canned air is nice to have by the press too.
 

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+2 on the canned air. Forgot about that in my post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright, fixing computers I have plenty of cans of it. Are they really that sensitive that a granule of powder can stop the priming system?
 

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Its usually only a problem when you miss a primer, or some other accident where powder spills. The air helps keep things clean, and clean is good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've been looking at the powder check dies and I realized something. Even this 5 stage press woulden't have enough stations.

1. Resize/Deprime.
2. Expand/Prime
3. Powder Drop
4. Bullet Seat
5. Taper Crimp

So, now I am debating passing on the powder check die or getting a powder-through expander for the powder drop.
 

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If you pulled a cgrutt is a good thing. No need to ruminate in endless threads and 'expert' recommendations that
otherwise can drive you nuts.
Among other progressives i have a couple of Horndays LnL with automated case and bullet feeders.
It takes some patience and attention to detail to get them tuned but when you get there they run like clock works.
Mine reload match grade ammunition. Some loads I have produce 1/2 MOA in several rifles. Not internet 1/2 MOA
but real moa. Other members here had shot reloads from these presses and can tell you.
To this I have to say brass preparation is key like always no matter what press and I do use a forster 3 way system
that is the fastest most accurate way to get the cases done after segregation, cleaning and sizing.
I also have a RCBS progressive but at this point I prefer the Hornady press for several reasons. The RCBS
is also a great press as the dillon obviously.
I think you made a good decision. They are worth every penny.
I think I can give you a few tips and tricks that will help you.

Initially you want the following.
-Grease gun (A simple cheap one)
-Extra primer tubes for whatever sizes you use if you don't have them already. A progressive in rock and roll mode will do 500 and you
don't want to stop a good rhythm to pick up primers.
-Primer pickup tray if you don't have one but in a pinch you can use the hand priming tray and turn them over on a flat clean surface like a nice cover or a tin box.
-Extra set of lock n load bushings. I am sure you have other calibers.
-Die cases are not large enough so you need to find other case to stored the indexed lnl dies. (Wider diameter bushings) ..but you can figure out as you go.
-Locking rings for the dies if you don't have them (hornady are a nice value too)
-Charging cop die. Here you can use the dillon beeping uint or the RCBS locking die.
-Led light strip or you can find an area light that let you focus on top of the reloaded cases to clearly see powder charges and bullet process as
you move along.
-Lee factory crimp die (optional) ..but if you don't have one it is the best thing to achieve consistent starting pressure.
-Might want to have an extra or larger drop container for the finished rounds. The one in the box will need a large stop that you can cut of a
plactic piece from some packaging to avoid the bullets jumping the box and to the ground. It happens with many presses.

Assembly is simple. Let me know when you get the package and I will explain a few things.
 

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I've been looking at the powder check dies and I realized something. Even this 5 stage press woulden't have enough stations.

1. Resize/Deprime.
2. Expand/Prime
3. Powder Drop
4. Bullet Seat
5. Taper Crimp

So, now I am debating passing on the powder check die or getting a powder-through expander for the powder drop.
The powder drop / ex-pander is needed with the charging cop die. I have my charging dies and drops setup for every caliber.
But you can leave w/o the cop if you you use easy to spot powders. Just have to make it part of the process the visual inspection
with a good led light right on top.

Another thing you can do with the case feeder is very easy you do one pass to prepare the brass. The advantage here is that
you can wash dirty primer pockets and oily cases and then all you are left in next operation is priming ,charging, checking charge, seating
and crimping if needed. In this case you can use the universal quick charger die. Even the flaring of the brass can be done in the 2nd
pass vs. the depriming and sizing on the first pass. A lot more cleaner brass. I suggest this for long term relaods as the brass can
be washed in the sonic system after prep and depriming. A bit of simple green is also amazing cleaning. Again, with the automated case feeder is not a big deal.
It doesn't matter what press system this is a good practice specially important with rifle that might need trimming after resizing
and before charging and seating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Had a little issue with credit card processing because of the holiday, all good now. Meke, I will let you knew when it arrives. I did already have some of those things in mind, but you gave me some good ideas.
 
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