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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I have a dumb question.


I have a Smith & Wesson M&P15 that still has/had the NY-compliant 16" barrel with no threads, flash hider, etc. It has a "full size" railed gas block on it. I finally got around to buying a new Daniel Defense barrel for it, and proceeded to install it today.

Let me tell you...removing the gas block on this thing is an absolute PITA. I've pretty much destroyed this thing trying to remove, along with the handguard cap. No big deal, I'll just buy a new cap and gas block. My question is...is there an issue if I were to buy a low profile gas block instead of full-sized railed gas block? I use the ARMS composite BUIS, therefore I don't mount it on the gas block anyhow.

Am I making sense?
 

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They come off super easy. Did you miss one of the set screws?

Yes you can replace it with any gasblock that is .75.

However if you mount your sights to the handguard it is imparitive that the handguard be 100% fixed and not have any movement at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought I did originally, but no, I didn't miss any screws. There's the pin for the gas tube and a set screw on the bottom, and that's it (other than the pin I can't get out).

So, yes, thing has been a pain. I'm at the point where I may have to apply a little heat to it. Maybe it'll loosen up?
 

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It is a tappered pin it will only go out 1 direction. I am guessing that you are pounding it the wrong way.


I would avoid adding heat to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep, though that, too! :)

However, before I did it, I did a little research and found out on the M&P15 OR, it goes from right (ejection port) to left.

Oh, well. I'll figure out something.

Thank you!
 

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Assuming you tried giving it a little whack with a mallet? Maybe has some carbon build up between block and barrel or different metals reacted and seized (aluminum and steel) under heat? Personally, I would give it a little heat, but not too much.
 

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Those pins are a b**** to get out......Secure your upper on a flat concrete surface and sharply "strike" the pin,don't try and hammer it out it won't budge that way unless you get really lucky.....A few sharp strikes should break it free,but I agree with bpipe95 it shouldn't come off that hard,I replaced one on my MP and is came off very easily.
 

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As an absolute last resort, and if you plan on replacing the GB anyway. Run a cut right along the path of the taper pin across the GB it will "pop" and relieve the pressure holding it in. You can to this with a rotatory tool and a good disk.
 
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