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I found it necessary to re-torque the barrel nut on one of my ARs so after reassembly I needed to re-zero the Aimpoint/BUIS/laser.

I choose to zero at 100-yards rather than some closer surrogate distance. The problem with getting an accurate zero at that distance with a 4-MOA dot is consistent hold.

So I created a painting stencil that I can use to mark an IDPA target for this purpose.


From the bench using a rest and sandbags I zero the dot by floating the center of the white circle. (I know I need to tweak that zero to the center more but it's close enough for government work.)

Then I confirmed the co-witness with my BUIS.

Because it was overcast this morning I was also able to zero my visible laser as well. I held the rifle on the bags while viewing the target through the spotting scope and could see my laser dot on the target. I then shot and zeroed using this technique.

An interesting feature of this particular AR is that I run a Surefire X400 Weapons Light/Laser at the 6-o'clock position.


When shooting at 100-yards the laser and the Aimpoint dots merge. At any range closer than 100-yards the dots are stacked and one need only bracket the intended POI.


When I want to go all Ninja I simply attach an absorptive neutral density filter over the laser reducing it to NOD levels.
 

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R0x0rz
Now you need a killflash for the dot sight :)

I still haven't worked out why on dual setups like that and the steamlights they fit the laser just as far away from the barrel as they can. You'd think they'd get them tucked in just as close as possible to reduce that LOS v POI issue a bit.
 
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