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Anyone here that's a boat owner have fiberglass/floor replacement experience??? I have an older checkmate and looking for some insight.
 

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My friend replaced his with marine grade plywood coated in epoxy. Believe he cut to fit, coated both sides with epoxy then screwed down and covered the whole thing with epoxy again. They sell the epoxy at the Marine store off Exit 6 on 87. I think its called System 3 or something like that. Congrats on the Checkmate. Another friend had one and it was very fast. Stay safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My friend replaced his with marine grade plywood coated in epoxy. Believe he cut to fit, coated both sides with epoxy then screwed down and covered the whole thing with epoxy again. They sell the epoxy at the Marine store off Exit 6 on 87. I think its called System 3 or something like that. Congrats on the Checkmate. Another friend had one and it was very fast. Stay safe.
I actually bought the boat like 2006ish. Used it a few times and pulled it apart to do the floor myself. Well I never finished it and then got into quads and traded it away to a family friend for a trailer. Anyways it's been almost 7 years and I called him up to see what's up and was wondering if he still had my
boat. Well he does still have it and never did anything with it. So I said I would buy it back and that was history. So basically I'm ready to get it back together.

The he stuff I used before was from west marine which is the store in Latham off exit 6 that you are thinking up. That stuff is very expensive.

Anyways the the checkmate is a modified v hull, weighs 1100lbs and sports a 200hp merc black max. She is pretty quick...around the 70mph mark. Unfortunatly it's not that pretty right now but hoping to bring her back.
 

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My friend's checkmate had a worked up big block and was scary fast. He also has a '69 Camaro that he drag races. Only thing on the Camaro that is actually a Camaro is the sheet metal though.

Sounds like a nice project. I guess you could use regular fiberglass resin if cost is an issue but that System 3 stuff worked great. I think you can use it directly on fiberglass fabric if weight of plywood is also an issue. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My friend's checkmate had a worked up big block and was scary fast. He also has a '69 Camaro that he drag races. Only thing on the Camaro that is actually a Camaro is the sheet metal though.

Sounds like a nice project. I guess you could use regular fiberglass resin if cost is an issue but that System 3 stuff worked great. I think you can use it directly on fiberglass fabric if weight of plywood is also an issue. Good luck.
I used to have a 69 camaro also that I got from my father. We built it threw highschool. I had a lot of great times in that car.

Yea the fiberglass is not to hard to do. You mix up the resin and lay it down and put some fiberglass mat in it. My worry is getting the new stringer in right etc.
 

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I had a '75 Glastron I did what you need to do plus the transom.
I had to remove the top half of my boat for the transom so it was more in depth.
Stringers could be layed up plywood or dimensional lumber. If it's dimensional any good quality straight grain wood will do. Many times oak ends up being less expensive and good fir is on this side of the country. Cut chisel and pry out your old stringers I made cardboard templates for the front ends to get the taper right. Once the fit is right epoxy them into the old slots.
The deck you can use 3/4 A/C or B/C exterior grade or Marine grade plywood. I'd stay away from PT plywood. Cut to fit with more cardboard templates. coat the bottom with epoxy and run more epoxy on the stringers. I added thickner to the epoxy on the stringers to get more build.
I weighted it down with cinder blocks until the epoxy cured.
Depending on what you are using for a deck cover it can go a couple of ways. I did it all with poly resin to save some money. You will have to glass in the side of the deck to the boat. I did a 6 inch wide mat along the edge. After that dried I did a single layer of fiberglass cloth across the entire floor.Then carpet for finish.
Take a close look at your transom. If the rest is shot that might be too.
Shoot me a pm if you have any questions.
 

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After that dried I did a single layer of fiberglass cloth across the entire floor.
I was going to suggest a thin layer of glass to seal both sides. If you're going to use polyester then you should catalyze it, then thin it with acetone and paint wood so that it soaks in nicely. After that dries you should sand it down and wet out a layer of some mat or cloth over the whole thing to seal the deal and keep it from cracking. You can buy some cabosil and microspheres to mix up a filler with the same resin to fill in any gaps, just be sure to glass over any joints or transitions between materials.

How you do It depends on how nice a job you want to do and how long you want it to last. Epoxy is nicer, but more expensive.

A project at my previous job.
Watercraft Naval architecture Boat Vehicle Floor
 

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No boat-working experience here, but I just wanted to say that as of a few hours ago, we are now boat owners. Nothing too major, though. A 14' Copperhead sailboat.
 

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Just picked up a 1986 Advantage Magnum 190 I/O with a 470, I hope to put it on the water this week. Sure wish I had the manual for it, and my own gas pump. :cool:
 

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Good luck and Post up progress! I have a 90 sea ray that needs the same. I pretty much only use it for striper fishing in the Hudson so it hasn't bothered me but maybe one day...
 

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Well I just ****ed up. Hit something at 35mph. Looks like I got lucky, all I see is skeg damage but boat is still in the water....
 

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Ugh. Sorry to hear. I recently did the same at about 15-20 mph and did $20K worth of damage. Fingers crossed that boat will be available this weekend but not holding my breath...
 

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Well I just ****ed up. Hit something at 35mph. Looks like I got lucky, all I see is skeg damage but boat is still in the water....
You better consider pulling it out of the water and doing a bit of an inspection to make sure there's no other damage, sorry to hear of the mishap.
 

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BTW, there is an AWESOME guy that does Skeg and prop repair in Newburgh if you need somebody. He does work up and down the entire east coast. Used him a couple of times over the years and can highly recommend.
 

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BTW, there is an AWESOME guy that does Skeg and prop repair in Newburgh if you need somebody. He does work up and down the entire east coast. Used him a couple of times over the years and can highly recommend.
Appreciate that, but I'm sure it will cost more than I paid for this old boat. I'll probably get one of those bolt on skeg things.
 
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