Barrel break-in procedure and cleaning supplies

[Donzo]

Hey guys, I just bought an AR and want to know what the proper procedure is for breaking in a barrel. It's a Brownell's barrel if that helps. This is my first rifle, but I grew up hunting (got my first shotgun at 14 yrs old) and mostly used my father's expensive Beretta's, Remington's, etc.

At the moment all I have is a standard cheap Outer 32 piece cleaning kit, and a Hoppes bore snake on the way. I ordered Froglube from Botach a week ago but they just emailed me last night saying it's back ordered for 3 weeks. So I need to order it elsewhere or just choose a different product/s.

I know there are tons of products out there and some people use Mobil1 while others spend hundreds of dollars on various solvents and lubes. What are the basic products I should look for to maintain my rifle? My father uses Remington oil and wd40 for everything but he doesn't go to the range or anything so his guns don't see THAT much use. I want to keep it minimal and affordable and would rather not have 4-5 different products.

[cgrutt]

I recently used this on a new AR barrel (6.8 SPC) which I got from the Weatherby site.

2 boxes of 20 rounds.

1st 10 shot single allowing barrel to completely cool and cleaning between each round.

Next 30, 10 3-round groups allowing barrel to completely cool between each group with cleaning between each group.

I think the idea is to not allow the barrel to get too hot all at once, allowing it to cycle between hot and cool several times before running it full bore.

I think all of the branded gun products are fine. I use Mobile 1 too. Was told not to use WD40 as it has some chemicals that can react with certain things on gun (e.g. Bluing, polymers, etc) and that it is not actually a lubricant (it removes water).

Good luck with the new gun!

[kmussack]

Barrels do not require special break-in procedures. Just be sure the barrel is clean and free of any residual oils prior to firing.

Get a one-piece stainless steel or coated cleaning rod.

Use a rod guide.

Clean from the breech.

Use Hoppes #9 for solvent and SAE 10W30 for lubricant.

Enjoy.

[Tifosi]

^^ That right there ^^

[M1a_scoutguy]

Is the BBL Chrome Lined ?? If ya spend more than 15/20 Min. cleaning your AR,,your wasting your time,,LOL !!! If you have NOT shot it yet and its a New BBL,,,run the Bore Snake through it once or twice to to get out any residue or crap from shipping/packaging !! As far as Break in,,just shoot the hell out of it and clean it when ya feel like it,,there are a Million different opinions on Break-In and all of them are right & all of them are Wrong,,thats just the way it is !!! Find some middle ground where you feel comfortable and do that,,it really doesn't matter,,only thing that changes that is Environment stuff,,,,shooting in the rain/snow/corrosive ammo,,etc,,,with that address, as needed !! I do agree with cgrutt about the "HEAT" cycles,,that probably won't hurt it ! I know when I bought my 1st Bushmaster AR years ago,,Bushmaster said shoot it at "Least" 200 Rd's before cleaning,,it helped polish the Chrome bore & makes it easier to clean later on !
I use Frog Lube and love it,,great stuff,,,but until ya get it,,just use any decent Lube/Oil,,Mobile 1 will do,,last ya forever and its cheap !! If I had to buy and use a Lube I could fine local & it worked good,,I would use the Slip 2000 product,,really decent stuff ! Rem Oil is probably OK if ya have it,,stay away from the WD40 !! Check these guys out,,this is the place I got my FL,,if ya spend over a certian amount its "Free Shipping" Hunting Stores Online | Online Sporting Goods | Camping Equipment Keep us posted on how ya make out,,and some Pic's of your New rifle are mandatory !!! LOL !!

[Donzo]

Hopefully my Hoppes bore snake comes in today so I won't have to use a rod/guide at all.

[Donzo]

Took these with my cell phone last night... mine is the Spike's, one under is a S&W M&P Sport. I went with a 14" barrel and 2" brake, and a 5# spring. Also has Magpul backup flip site. Knives are a Kershaw Leek and Ka-bar Explorer.

[M1a_scoutguy]

Outstanding !! Some good looking rifles,,Thanks for the Pic's !! I'll keep the "pressure" on,,,,now a Range report,,LOL !!!

[Donzo]

Thanks! Yes, I'll try to take pics and possibly video this weekend. Going up by the Adirondacks to do some shooting with my father. 80+ acres of land... can't wait!


Another questions, do you have to wash the Hoppe's bore snake? If so, how often?

[llink78]

iv owned mine 1 years and never washed it. still looks clean, i only run it throughout the barrel twice after i get done shooting.

[xhondastyle07x]

Ive never run any barrels through break in procedures, just shoot and clean

[cgrutt]

I'm by no means an expert on these things and actually agree to some extent that there is no need to follow a break-in procedure, perhaps esp on an AR15 that will be used for plinking, training and/or home defense. However there still may be some benefit to following a simple BI procedure up front (e.g. Better accuracy and easier cleaning in the future). The one I used and recommended above is what Weatherby recommends for their new guns. I found this site that recommends a similar procedure and provides some insight to the thought process behind the recommendation. Bottom line do what you think is best. No BI is probably fine but I'm certain following one will not hurt. http://www.larrywillis.com/barrel.html

[usmcveteran]

Here is a link I found yesterday. http://www.bordenrifles.com/Barrel_cleaning_edited.pdf . It basically says that if you get a true top of the line rifle (meaning barrel as well) no break in is needed because because its already been lapped. It also talks about how to determine on regular (not super expensive rifles) rifles if it needs a break in.

[Tifosi]

No BI is probably fine but I'm certain following one will not hurt

I dunno, there can be a LOT of mental anguish when shooting your first one for the first time and having to stop umpteen times to break it down and give it a rubdown.
I've seen people almost cry when they couldn't get thier very first magdump giggle within 5 minutes of getting on the firing line, let alnoe do stuff like shoot, stop, disassemble, clean, assemble, shoot, stop, disassemble, clean, assemble over and over.

Mental stress is not good when it involves firearms

Precision target barrels of course need a special kind of love to be sure, but a standard chrome lined off~the~pile job isn't really going to have any change from A to B other than the possibly of the afore mentioned heat cycles, though even they don't really reach a temperature adiquate enough to alter temper/'seasoning' of the barrel steel.
(slow fire is not ever going to raise temps up into the 300 to 750 ºF range then heat soaking and/or quenching required for that)

[cgrutt]

Tifosi, I was talking about harm to the barrel, the operator is on his own. Besides, you always should bring more than one gun to the range. Oh, and you left out the part that I agree its probably not necessary, esp for an AR15. Is this how Romney feels after being partially quoted by NBC

[Donzo]

The AR platform is easy enough to disassemble, especially since the only tool needed is a fingernail. lol

I've already taken it down a few times just to become familiar with the procedure and parts. As soon as my cleaning products come in I plan on thoroughly cleaning and lubing the rifle up before taking it out.

I ordered Hoppe's #9 Elite cleaner and the Hoppe's bore snake was ordered last week. Regarding using motor oil for a gun lube, I have a few questions:

-Why does everyone seem to suggest Mobil 1 over other brands?
-What viscosity to get?
-What method do you use to apply it? Dropper, brush, rag, etc.
-How do you store it? (Standard 5qt bottle or pour it into something smaller)

[cgrutt]

Good marketing dept? I guess its the same reason most recommend using a Band-aid for that cut or having a Coke with lunch, ha, ha. Mobil 1 is a good synthetic grade oil. I suppose straight 30 would be as good as any other, but not sure if weight really matters (unless you're shooting below freezing). I've had a pint or so in a 60's style oil can (the kind that "pops" on the bottom when you press it) forever and use it on a lot of things besides guns. 5 qrts is likely to last several lifetimes, ha, ha. Seriously, I wish you the best of luck with the new gun. Stay safe and have fun.

[cgrutt]

BTW, where in the Adirondacks are you going? Heading up to Lake George myself as soon as I get out of work. Supposed to be a good weekend other than chance of some thunderstorms tomorrow afternoon. Sunday is looking awesome.

[M1a_scoutguy]

The AR platform is easy enough to disassemble, especially since the only tool needed is a fingernail. lol

I've already taken it down a few times just to become familiar with the procedure and parts. As soon as my cleaning products come in I plan on thoroughly cleaning and lubing the rifle up before taking it out.

I ordered Hoppe's #9 Elite cleaner and the Hoppe's bore snake was ordered last week. Regarding using motor oil for a gun lube, I have a few questions:

-Why does everyone seem to suggest Mobil 1 over other brands?
-What viscosity to get?
-What method do you use to apply it? Dropper, brush, rag, etc.
-How do you store it? (Standard 5qt bottle or pour it into something smaller)

I always liked this for the BBL Break In Crowd ! How to Break-in a Barrel
I think guys use Mobile 1 cuz it is a good oil,,I personally have never used it,so someone else will have to chime in on what WT Oil to use. I would transfer a small amount into a bottle that you can easily transport in your range bag and its easy to use. As far as amount of Lube to use,,,everyone has there ideal on that also,,but I'll give my 2 cents worth !! Starting with a clean Bolt/Carrier,,,I lube the Bolt pretty good,,spread it around with your finger,insert into carrier and then lube Cam Pin & assemble. I don't put any on the Firing Pin ! Once together,,I put a couple more drops in the side/holes on the Carrier,,,,lube up the Charging Handle,,insert,,lube the Bolt on the Flats/Rails,,spread it around and insert into rifle,,close it up,,rack it multiple times,,,Done !!! Now head to the range and have some fun !!

[Donzo]

Awesome. Thank you all for the helpful insight!

I'll be up near Canajoharie, NY. It's about a 2 1/2 hour drive from me. We have a weekend house up there that we use for hunting, fishing, atv riding, etc.

[Tifosi]

Oh, and you left out the part that I agree its probably not necessary, esp for an AR15. Is this how Romney feels after being partially quoted by NBC

What are you on about? My dog was doing the peepee dance so I wasn't listening

I've had a pint or so in a 60's style oil can (the kind that "pops" on the bottom when you press it)

Donzo:
If you can't decide on an engine oil weight and/or choose between synthetic or dino, Dextron II automatic transmission fluid is an excellent gun lube, as is Marvel Mystery oil.
Both are drippier/looser than engine oil of pretty much any weight of course, but can go much, much lower in operating temperatures without thickening yet won't evaporate in hot (weather or gun) use.
You know, just to throw another variable into the mix

[cgrutt]

So you've got the same one, I see. Mine is copper, lol...

[Donzo]

Hmm... I just happen to have a 5 gal bucket of auto tranny fluid that I used to free up seized coilovers for my car.

[Tifosi]

So you've got the same one, I see. Mine is copper, lol...

Mine's so old that the serial number is stamped in Roman numerals

Lately I've been taking the missus' manual pump hair care bottles by adding a bit of red nozzle tube off a WD/40 can and tweaking that into the spritzer head and then carrying oil in that.
Nice to be able to just stick a nozzle in wherever and give it a couple squeezes.
Makes for a 6~8oz container to tote along.

[Dieter122]

Jsyk MBUIS on a gas block can be bad...plastic can melt if you shoot and heat your gun up. I've read some stories...
I'd either mount the front sight on a FF quad or switch to a metal front sight.

Aside from that they look like nice guns. Happy shooting em. Now post some range report pics!